We walk single file in the African bush, our ranger in camouflage fatigues leading the way, a high-powered rifle slung over his shoulder. A herd of cappuccino-coloured impala stops; ears perked up, they suddenly dart away, gracefully leaping over tree stumps and bushes like ballet dancers. But we’re more interested in the white-backed vultures stirring up dust clouds in the distance above the rib bones of a large carcass. A hyena skulks off as we approach. The carcass turns out to be that of an elephant — its wrinkly legs are still intact. Our guide points out the lion tracks. “A lot of animals have been feasting on this,” he reflects. “They’ll be back again tonight.”

We’re on a morning walking safari in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park…