India is a chaotic mix of sights, sounds and smells. A developing nation where old and new worlds collide and where haves and have nots coexist side by side. It’s a land of contrasts but probably not a destination that comes to mind when you’re thinking about your next golf vacation.
But, did you know that the oldest golf course outside the UK is the Royal Calcutta, built in 1829 when the British ruled India? I didn’t get there, but I did spend seven days playing my way around the ‘Golden Triangle’ while soaking up the history, experiencing the lifestyle and meeting new friends who are dedicated to expanding the golf industry in India.
My adventure began in Delhi, a city teeming with life that embodies the spirit of the Indian people. Initially, I was at a loss to describe how I felt when I first arrived, but my host Bharat Bedi summed it up very eloquently when he told me, “Delhi, with a thousand years of history, is a city of contrasts that combines the unique ambience of the ancient and the modern worlds”, a theme that resonated with me for the rest of my trip.
Oasis in the City
On my second day, we headed to Noida and Jaypee Greens, the first Greg Norman signature course ever built in India. Norman’s team excavated 24 acres of flat featureless land to create fourteen man-made ponds and 88 bunkers. At 7,347 yards, Jaypee Greens is the second longest course in India after Gulmarg. The fairways are wide and receptive but beware, with water evident on almost every hole, there are plenty of risk/reward shots. A much shorter, Executive 9-hole course complements the championship course and provides the perfect venue for sharpening your short game. Guests of the resort can also take advantage of the floodlit driving range or relax at the Six Senses Spa.
As delightful as that sounded, when you travel this far, you simply have to experience all the many facets of India. I headed back to Delhi and in a couple of hours was able to explore Qutab Miar and the diplomatic enclave that includes Parliament House, India Gate and the President’s estate.
Oasis of Tranquility
Gurgaon lies 40 minutes south of the Nation’s Capital and is home to the ITC Grand Bharat, a luxurious golf resort occupying more than 3000 acres of secluded land. It is truly an oasis of tranquility after navigating the streets of Delhi.
This 27-hole club is Jack Nicklaus’ first signature course in Asia sporting three distinct layouts. The Ridge features gentle rolling fairways with substantial bunkering. The Valley has plenty of water, and the Canyon Course serves up craggy views that showcase the Aravali foothills.
Relaxed after our round, we headed back to Delhi to experience the Kingdom of Dreams, “India’s answer to Broadway” where we took in a live musical, Bollywood style. The perfect ending to an amazing day!
The Best Golf Course in India
The original 18-hole Arnold Palmer designed DLF Golf Club in Gurgaon has consistently been rated the best course in India. In the past, DLF has hosted many European and Asian sanctioned tours and the dramatic upgrades in recent years have only served to enhance its beauty and its reputation.
In 2013, the new Gary Player Signature nine opened to great acclaim. The spectacular amphitheatre design offers up some very uneven fairways with dramatic deep-faced bunkers and left me wanting more and I wasn’t disappointed. I was thrilled to be able to tour his newest nine just days before it was slated to open while the greenkeepers were completing their final touches, in preparation for the 2015 Hero Women’s Indian Open.
There is no doubt in my mind that the DLF Golf Club will continue to reign supreme in India. Even though the greens appear to be the toughest on the planet, I can’t wait to return and play this gem in its entirety next year.
A Difficult Choice
As a child, I remember reading the Road to Agra. It left quite an impression on me, but as we headed south, I know that the road had certainly changed in the intervening years. It is now a modern six lane expressway that took us to Agra in less than four hours.
Despite the quick trip, my time in Agra was limited so I debated beyween playing the one and only Agra Golf Club or visiting the Taj Mahal. We had missed the sunrise, the best time to tee off in the shadow of the Taj, so I have to admit that in the end, the chance to explore one of the world’s seven wonders won out.
The Pink City
Our next stop – Rajasthan, the land of the maharajahs, the fabled “Pink City of Jaipur” and home to two golf courses – the 18-hole Rambagh Golf Club and the newly constructed 9-hole Royal Jaipur Golf Club. I played the Rambagh that was built in the ‘50s as a sand course and later converted to a par 70 green grass club. This course is not exactly pristine but it is challenging and a one of a kind experience. Situated in the heart of the city, I felt like I was playing in a bygone era with glimpses of the Rambagh Palace, Moti Doongani, Nahargarth Fort and the Birla Planetarium as I made my way around the course.
The Royal Jaipur provides a change of pace when visiting the region. It’s currently a 9-hole links style course, but plans are underway to add another nine. Framed by the peaks and valleys of the Aravalli Mountains, Royal Jaipur offers more elevation changes as it follows the natural contours of the land. A series of pretty lakes, dense rough and white sand bunkers add to the challenge.
Jaipur is a history lovers delight so between rounds, I’d suggest you take some time to explore the Hawa Mahal or tour the lavish City Palace, the official residence of Jaipur’s current Maharajah. The Jantar Mantar, a collection of 17th century astronomical instruments is amazing but so is pretending to be a Kacchawaha King as you ride an elephant to the Amber fort.
With so much to see and so much to do, all too soon it was time to return home. As our plane banked over Delhi, it was then that I realized with India’s history, culture and diversity combined with a burgeoning economy we will soon see India rated as one of the most exotic golf destinations in the world!