Pondering Paradise in Panama – by Jane Finn

Its 7 o’clock as the sun rises over the ridge. The stillness of the morning is broken only by the sounds of the Agua Blanco River babbling below or the occasional soft whinny of a horse grazing on a nearby hillside. Butterflies and birds of every colour flit through the rainforest and the sky is so clear I can see the Pacific Ocean, about an hour and a half away. I’m so relaxed but also so energized at the same time that I find myself reflecting on how I came to be at the top of the world, in our treehouse in Lucero.

Our adventure began soon after we arrived at Tocumen airport. I had read about the Panamanian Papers, understood the importance of the Canal and knew that Panama was rapidly emerging as the best value travel destination in Central America, but I was still unprepared for the scene that greeted me as we made our way towards the city. Slowly, suburban enclaves give way to towering office buildings, luxury condos, shopping malls, casinos and 5-star hotels. The skyline reminds me of Miami, and before I know it, we’re in the downtown core.

The streets are teeming with people and with traffic. There are runners and cyclists on the Amador Causeway and shoppers laden with bags stroll along Avenida Balboa in search of another duty-free bargain. Taxis loudly honk their horns, anxious to get their passengers to their next meeting and street vendors vie with cafes and restaurants for your patronage. At first, it’s hard to take it all in then it strikes me, after dining on tapas and ceviches; the city is like Panamanian food – fresh, vibrant and a little bit spicy.

In contrast, when we visit Casco Viejo the next day, I feel like I have taken a step back in time. The narrow cobblestone streets referred to as callejones encourage exploration on foot and when you stroll along the Esteban walkway, the views of Cerro Anćon and the Bay of Panama are spectacular. Dating back to the 17th century, this UNESCO heritage site is experiencing a period of renewal.  Heavily influenced by French, Spanish and American architecture, crumbling facades are under repair,  plazas, and hidden courtyards have been restored to their former glory and new luxury apartments, art galleries, and night clubs are taking up residence behind the walls, a testimony to how the historical and modern can coexist in harmony.

A trip to Panama would not be complete without a visit to the Canal so before hopping on the Pan-American Highway, the world’s longest road, we stop at Miraflores Locks to see what many consider to be the ‘eighth wonder of the world.'  It was awe inspiring to watch a giant container ship glide through the massive locks and then sail past a rainforest at the ‘Crossroads of the World.'

While I would have been hard-pressed to get behind the wheel in Panama City, once we crossed the Bridge of the Americas it was a comfortable drive to the string of coastal towns that lie just an hour outside the city.  Punta Charme, Gorgona, El Palmar and San Carlos are all beautiful, but we decided to check out Coronado, Panama’s first resort community to see for ourselves why tourists who came for vacation are relocating here in increasing numbers. The new Scarlett Martinez International Airport at Rio Hato provides Europeans and North Americans easy access to Coronado’s spectacular white and black beaches, crystaline waters, five golf courses and a large ex-pat population but that is not the only reason so many want to call these Pacific Shores home.

For those longing to escape to a tropical paradise, Panama has a lot to offer, and it appears that many foreigners are impressed with the country’s stable democracy, state-of the art medical facilities and affordable lifestyle based on US dollars. Also, retirees  – pensinados – are entitled to numerous benefits including discounts ranging from 30% to 50% on airlines, restaurants, movie theatres and hotels and there is no tax on foreign income. With an income of greater than $1000 per month,  Canadians and Americans can obtain a residential visa and start living the good life in less than three months.

For those who prefer a more temperate climate, Boquete in Chiriqui province also beckons, so we headed north to discover what this region had to offer.

In David, the capital city, we met up with Daniel, an entrepreneurial spirit, solid family man, and Boquete’s unofficial ambassador who joined us as we made our way up into the mountains. The 45-minute drive passed all too quickly as he shared his insights about not only what to see and what to do but also the people, the politics, real estate investments and why Boquete has become a haven for backpackers, tourists, and expats alike. His enthusiasm was infectious, and Daniel set the tone for the rest of our trip. He left us in no doubt that, though Dave was here to play Panama’s only mountain golf course, we had chosen well when we decided to visit Boquete and explore life like a local, in our quest for what’s next.

One of our first stops was Sugar & Spice, an artisan bakery and gathering place for ex-pats.  While sitting at an outdoor table, it was easy to strike up a conversation over a cup of the world’s best tasting coffee and gain their perspective on why they had left North America for the simpler life.

That afternoon, we hiked the the Sendero Los Quetzas trail to Cerro Punta, Panama’s food basket where we gorged on the plumpest, juicest strawberries I’ve ever tasted; only to return by car for a twenty pound sack of vegetables known as puercas for the princely sum of $6 US dollars.

There is a magical quality about the Chiriqui highlands and over the few days, we quickly adapted to a more relaxed and natural way of life. We visited the Caldera Hot Springs on horseback, travelled to the top of Volcan Barú to see the sun rise, took in a soccer game on a makeshift pitch below a coffee plantation and learned how the indigenous people of the Embera tribe live. We also explored La Amisad International Park, part of a Biosphere Reserve maintained by both Panama and Costa Rica, zip-lined through the cloud forest above a canopy of trees, went whitewater rafting past spectacular gorges and discovered hidden waterfalls.

Did I mention that we were able to do all this despite the fact that we were here during the rainy season? Like clock work, around mid-afternoon, the rain would come.  Sometimes it was nothing more than a gentle mist, other times it was biblical, but it didn’t dampen our spirits. In fact, it was a welcome respite from the heat of the coastal areas, but one afternoon we got caught in a torrential downpour. Drenched and feeling a bit parched, we sought refuge in Boquete’s oldest bar Fusion J&B to quench our thirst with a Balboa. It was then that we truly embraced the local culture and they embraced us. 

We were the only non-speaking Spanish patrons in the restaurant, not that it mattered as English is widely spoken throughout Panama, but that day we arrived during the final moments of the UEFA Championship game and emotions were running high. It was hard keeping up with the conversation when suddenly, Renaldo scored on a penalty shot and Real Madrid triumphed over their arch rivals, Atlético Madrid. The fans erupted, and we were immediately swept up in the celebrations, one of the crowd, rejoicing in the victory and the camaraderie of friends.

I’m not sure how it happened, but as I sit here, the evening before we depart, Daniel’s prediction rings true, after our time in Boquete, Panama has captured our hearts.  To quote Daniel, “we don’t just like it, we love it!” This little slip of a country, the gateway between two continents may have satisfied our wanderlust – not just for a few weeks but potentially a lifetime!