Croeso i Gymru (Kroy-sore ee Gum-ree) – Welcome to Wales
It’s hard to imagine that Wales was once voted the Undiscovered Golf Destination of the World, but no more – the secret is out! After hosting the Ryder Cup at the Celtic Manor in 2010 and The Senior Open Championship at Royal Porthcawl in 2014, quiet Wales has asserted itself as a world-class golf destination and yet, it remains the place to go if you’re seeking an unspoiled, unpretentious, unhurried golf vacation.
Escaping from the hustle and bustle of London, it took us slightly over two hours to reach the Wye Bridge and cross over into Chepstow, home to what is considered the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain and our first stop in in Wales. Shortly after crossing the border we found ourselves driving through the 400-acre, former deer park that surrounds the St. Pierre Marriott Hotel and Golf Club, a Marriott unlike any I’ve stayed at before. Impressive was the word that sprang to mind when we first saw the 14th-century manor house and 11th century church that sits at the heart of this resort. Within minutes, we were escorted to our room overlooking the 9th green and the 10th tee box of the ‘new’ course, and I felt like we had ‘arrived’.
St. Pierre Old Course – A Parkland Course
In Wales, there’s a saying – “there’s always time for tea” but on this trip I only had time to tee it up on one of their two 18-hole layouts, so I chose the championship “Old Course” over the executive Mathern. Reputed to be one of the most popular courses in Wales, I can understand why. When I played in June, the course was in immaculate condition, parkland golf at its finest.
Opened in 1962, the Old Course has hosted over a dozen European tournaments with past winners that include Seve Ballesteros, Greg Norman and Bernhard Langer. This layout is built around an 11-acre lake though water only comes in to play on four holes.
I found the first five holes relatively uneventful, but I soon changed my mind when I hit the 6th, a beautiful downhill par 3 with a great view. The 7th was equally impressive with a sweeping dogleg to the right but it’s the back nine that will test your skills, and the last two holes make for a grand finale. It’s hard to say which hole is the toughest, the 17th with its peninsula green or the long par 3, 235 yard 18th across the edge of the lake to an elevated green. Either way, you’re guaranteed a memorable finish.
Royal Porthcawl – A True Links Course
The sky was clear, and the prevailing winds were blowing onshore from the Bristol Channel as we drove north along Mallard Way from the charming seaside village of Porthcawl. It was an ideal day for kite boarders, surfers and sun bathers to frolic along the sandy shoreline of Rest Bay but I was giddy with excitement because I was about to play the top ranked golf course in Wales, just weeks before “The Senior Open Championship”.
The Royal Porthcawl Golf Club dates back to 1891 and has consistently ranked in the top 100 golf courses in the world. It’s storied past includes hosting the Welsh Championship, The Amateur, and The Walker Cup, but this was the first time it would host a major championship.
Coastal courses are full of character. A true links course hugs the shore, and Royal Porthcawl does not disappoint. With a layout that slopes towards the sea, every hole serves up unparalled views of the Atlantic, but I’ll warn you, beauty has its price. The absence of high dunes and trees means that the fairways are completely exposed, pitting you against the prevailing winds. Still, despite the challenges, this day turned out to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, in more ways than one.
When we reached the 16th tee, the group ahead of us were just setting up so while we were waiting I glanced back and noticed a two-some approaching the 15th green. In the interest of faster play and meeting new people, I walked over and asked if they would join us. They politely declined, but we struck up a conversation. Turns out I was talking to veteran European Senior Tour player, Bob Cameron and his caddy, getting in a few practice rounds in preparation for The Open.
Elated by the chance encounter, we finished our round on a high note and headed to the Great House in Bridgend and dinner at Leicester’s. The menu changes with every season, but let me tell you, my pan fried monkfish tails with tempura prawns was delicious and the walnut and orange tart with clotted cream was worth every calorie. A meal fit for a king, one that may even have been served to Prince Charles, who was rumoured to have once stayed in our room!
Pyle & Kenfig – The Heathland Course
P&K as the locals affectionately know it, neighbours on Royal Porthcawl but differs in so many ways. The inland location makes it a heathland versus a true links course even though you’ll get glimpses of the ocean between towering sand dunes and 88 deep-faced bunkers. You won’t find many trees here, but danger lurks in the gorse and the sand.
Like Royal Porthcawl , P&K consists of two loops. The back nine is more daunting but also the most picturesque. In fact, 11 through 17 maybe one of the finest stretches of holes you will find anywhere.
Though Pyle & Kenfig lives in the shadow of the Royal Porthcawl, I found it to be abuzz with activity that centered around local events but at the same time, open and receptive to visitors. My only wish is that one day P&K will buy more land across the road and build another nine holes on the ocean side to add to the richness of experience.
Long overshadowed by its siblings – England, Ireland and Scotland – Wales has finally come into its own. With more than 200 courses including mountain tracks, parkland gems and championship links, a rich heritage and undeniably hospitable people, Wales lives up to its motto as the place to go to ‘experience golf as it should be!”